In this first instalment of our new series “People of West Cork”, we asked the Author Caragh Bell: “What does West Cork mean to you and what influence does it have on your work?” Find out in her guest post that follows.
Caragh Bell - Photo by Emma Jervis.
West Cork has long been a desirable place to live in Ireland. The green hills, the rugged coastline, the golden beaches, the vibrant towns. Writers, artists, even the odd celebrity, choose to settle in this magical place. The environs of West Cork are not geographically defined on a map. Locals say it’s the part of the county south and west of the River Bandon. It is pronounced ‘Weshst Cork’ in native dialect and unless a person is born and bred in the area, they will forever be considered a ‘blow in’. Not that blow ins aren’t welcome. In fact, West Cork is extremely multi-cultural, which enriches its culture and its ambiance.
My home is Skibbereen, a market town in the heart of West Cork. In fact, I was born in Skibbereen General Hospital, making me a pure blood native: a veritable West Corkonian.The house in which I live now was built my great-great-great grandfather, John Burke in 1837. The West Cork Railway used to pass right through the middle of my sitting room. In the early 1960s, the railway was dismantled. My grandparents bought back the land from Iarnród Éireann and built an extension on it. Today I watch television where the train tracks used to be.
I teach English and French in Sacred Heart Secondary School in Clonakilty, another lively market town further along the coast. I commute from Skibbereen every day, passing through the sleepy little village of Leap and the picturesque Rosscarbery. The roads are precariously windy so if you happen to find yourself behind a tractor travelling at a snail’s pace, it’s difficult to overtake. Just go with it! As we say in West Cork, it’ll be ‘grand’.
As well as being a teacher, I’m also a writer. I’ve published five books with the Dublin company Poolbeg Press, and my sixth will be released later this year. I write romantic fiction because it gives such escapism to people. We live in a world saturated with bad news and it’s virtually impossible to escape the gloom. Every time I open my Newsfeed on my phone, it’s tragedy after tragedy. What better than disappearing into a world that doesn’t offend and makes you feel warm inside? I like nothing better than settling down and reading romantic novels myself. They’re the perfect break from real life.
West Cork has certainly nourished my creativity. My first three books – Indecision, Regrets and Promises - are set in Cork. The protagonist lives near Baltimore, a small fishing village on the southwest coast. Why? Because one of my English professors in UCC told us to write about ‘what we know’. Naturally I included aspects of West Cork life in my stories. I drew from my memories and experiences. My protagonist goes sailing around the islands near Baltimore, just as I did when I was a child. She also visits the market in Skibbereen on a Saturday morning and buys some Gubbeen cheese: a local product that comes from the famous Gubbeen Farmhouse near Schull. I am influenced by my world and this comes out in my writing.
Speaking of the West Cork Farmers’ Markets, they really showcase West Cork at its best and attract all sorts of artists. I amble down to my local market each week to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, buy some free-range meat and sometimes have a coffee at the communal table in the centre, watching the world go by.
It is truly a sensuous experience. The smell of the coffee beans, the hiss of the machine as the dark brown liquid pours out into a cup. The chatter and bustle. The warmth of the sun on your skin as you wait at the cheese stall. The multitude of nationalities, all thrown into a glorious melting pot of cultures. You can sample some falafel, a crêpe, a beef burger or a bacon bap. You can buy homemade jam, delicious cakes or jars of local honey. The scent of all the delectable gastronomic delights wafts past as you meander through the numerous stalls. Local sculptors, artists, writers, and poets set up stalls to display their work. You can buy wooden furniture, watercolour paintings, woollen scarves, homemade soap. There’s often a busker playing music as you wander around. It could be a harpist or a violinist. A solo singer or a choir. Everyone smiles. Everyone is welcoming.
My fourth book, ‘Echoes of Grace’, is set in Cornwall, but ends up on the inhabited Cape Clear island off the West Cork coast. Again, the lure of my native landscape drew me back. I remember typing furiously when my character stepped on Irish soil – it felt familiar and the words flowed like water. When she stepped onto the ferry, en route to the island, I could see it clearly in my mind’s eye. I could almost taste the sea spray as the boat moved through the waves.
The exposition of my sixth book, which will be released some time in 2021, is set in Cork. Again, it felt right to write about my native county; it felt familiar. Even though it quickly moves to London, the story is intricately linked to Ireland. That’s all I can say at this stage, but I’m very excited about its upcoming publication.
I’ve always lived in West Cork and I always will. There’s nowhere better to raise my children. Unpredictable weather and potholes aside, it really is almost perfect. The small country lanes, the montbretia growing wild on the hedgerows, the sense of community. The verdant trees in the summer, the green fields dotted with haystacks. The same trees in winter, their naked branches silhouetted against the darkening sky. The brightly coloured houses in the small towns, ranging from bright pink to sunshine yellow. The abundance of wildlife and the fresh air. The creamy pints of Guinness.
West Cork is my Shangri-La – my earthly paradise.Surrounded by its aesthetic beauty, I feel at home. It is truly a heavenly place.
Caragh Bell.
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